Sunday, June 20, 2010

Jil Sander's Psychedelic Designs


If any message emerged from three days this week in Florence at Pitti, the world's leading menswear trade show, it's that men will be wearing mega bright, high-tech colors next spring, especially if they shop at Jil Sander, which staged a gala show here Thursday, June 17.

Using a combination of colors such as electric violet, shiny orange, Aegean turquoise, Sander's creative designer Raf Simons whipped up a Pop Art ensemble that dazzled the eyes, even though it was staged at night.

Staged in the strikingly beautiful gardens of Villa Gamberaia, a late 18th century neoclassic villa east of Florence, the show featured 45 models wandering around the bushes and intricate pathways before walking down an 80-yard lawn.

Simons pulled no punches when it came to brights; he even color co-ordinated outfits with shoes whose soles were in fiery red or indigo blue. Nor did he hesitate when it came to advanced fabrics - between high-tech waterproof cottons and nylon taffeta.

His show underlined a major trend here - bright 1960s hippie flower power looks, though updated by modern technology. For instance, Simons showed several great white shirts with outrageously large single floral prints, which on closer inspection turned out be amalgams of several flowers, like roses or orchids, morphed together in a photo computer program.

Simons is also an extremely savvy tailor, alternating between floating technical trench coats in geranium and light yet super structured jackets in iris where stripes of silver duct tape added cool details and functional rigidity. Plus his glistening zigzag stripe jerseys looked like sure commercial hits.

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