The design leader of the modernist moment in men's fashion today is surely Italo Zucchelli, an Italian designing for Calvin Klein, where he evokes the energy, hard edges and technical crowded life of urban citizens for this American brand.
It was instructive that in a Milan season where so many other designers are showing colonial chic with rumpled linen suits and blazers in jute, Zucchelli presented taut, frequently cropped clothes with hard high-tech finishes, albeit in a spring 2011 collection leavened with sportswear touches.
"Graphic, clean, strong, New York!" trumpeted Zucchelli after the show on Saturday, June 19.
Though Italy is suffering floods and Milan heavy rains, Zucchelli is envisaging a balmy summer next year. So much so, many sweatshirts were cropped half way up the chest, the better to see the models' six-pack abdomen. Severeal of these feature logos, though even the Calvin was cut in half. Part sweatshirt, part micro cape, the garment would be impossible to wear without a flat stomach, but a cool look if one is gym rat buffed.
Many super shiny materials had an almost circuit board attitude finish, achieved by spraying or bleaching cottons.
Zucchelli cuts his tailored clothing with a scalpel. His are not outfits for the overweight, but by being so strict with his silhouette he only adds to the sense of high-tech dandy, which is the major theme of this designer.
Technology aside, a favorite look, however, was a great suit in black and white plaid, though with the check so huge it looked almost like an abstract painting. It had sass and cool swagger, just like this innovative collection.
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